Thursday, December 19, 2013

Nyonya Undergarments

The camisoles worn by Nyonyas under their kebaya were made of cotton and were usually stitched by the Nyonyas themselves, although sometimes they were sent out for tailoring. Early camisoles worn under the translucent kebaya had long sleeves and high collars, much like the undershirts worn with the baju panjang. They were usually buttoned up the front or back. Sometimes they were made with pockets, presumably for carrying small items. Over time, the camisole list its sleeves and became more like a vest.

Later, most camisoles had assumed a more tapered shape, rather like a corset. Shoulder straps became thinner and breast cups more pronounced. They came in various colours to match the colour of the kebaya's fabric. Most featured lace or simple scallop-embroidered borders but a few were enhanced with quite extensive embroidery work, which was visible through the voile of the kebaya.

In the 1950s, most Nyonya had abandoned the camisole in favour of the brassiere. Brassieres were the European introduction, also during the 1950s or 1960s. They heralded a trend towards more rounded silhouettes in local women's fashion.

Although a brassiere was visible under the kebaya, the question of modesty was never an issue among Nyonyas. Unlike the Malay women, Nyonyas never saw it as breaching any code of modesty wearing them. However, some older Nyonyas did not approve of the practice and continued wearing the old-fashioned camisole. Today, brassieres are commonly accepted among Nyonyas as the normal support wear for kebaya.

Pictures below show the four camisoles for use under the kebaya. Camisoles 2, 3 and 4 features different patterns of crochet works.


Camisole 1
Early camisole worn under the translucent kebaya with long sleeves and high collar, much like the undershirts worn with the baju panjang.



Camisole 1



Camisole 2



Camisole 2



Camisole 2



Camisole 3



Camisole 3



Camisole 3



Camisole 4



Camisole 4



Camisole 4

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